FFB tuning by brand: Fanatec, Moza, Simagic

Force feedback is set in two places, and most bad-FFB complaints come from not knowing that. The base software (Fanatec Control Panel, Moza Pit House, Simagic SimPro Manager) sets a global strength and the feel of damping, friction, and inertia. The sim sets a per-car gain on top of it. Set the base once, then do your per-car tuning in the sim. Stacking high strength in both places is what produces a wheel that clips and rattles at the same time.

The rule for every base below: set the base to a sane global level, then in iRacing use Linear mode and set Max Force per car (or run the auto/calibrate lap) so the peak load just touches the ceiling without clipping. Match your steering rotation to the car — for most iRacing and Assetto Corsa cars set the base to AUTO so the sim drives the lock.

Fanatec (CSL DD, DD+)

The Fanatec CSL DD is a 5Nm base (8Nm with the Boost Kit 180); the Gran Turismo DD Pro is the same hardware. The ClubSport DD is 12Nm; the ClubSport DD+ now delivers 18Nm of holding torque (firmware-raised from the original 15Nm). The base tuning menu uses a wall of acronyms — here is what each one does and a known-good starting point:

Setting	What it does	Start at
FF / FFB	Overall gain	Set so the sim does the work
FOR	Force ceiling	100
NDP	Natural Damper — smooths oscillation, adds stability	OFF to low
NFR	Natural Friction — mechanical/static weight, calms shimmy on unassisted cars	0 to low
NIN	Natural Inertia	OFF
INT	Interpolation — smooths the signal; lower is sharper	2-3
FEI	Force Effect Intensity — sharpness of effects; 100 is sharpest	70-100
SEN	Wheel rotation	AUTO

Leave FOR at 100, keep NDP/NFR off or low, and start INT at 2-3 and FEI at the high end. If road detail feels harsh or noisy, drop FEI to 80-90. For what each smoothing slider physically does and how to fix a notchy or mushy feel, see /ffb/filters-and-smoothness/. In iRacing, run Linear and set Max Force per car so the base gain isn’t doing double duty.

Moza R-series (Pit House)

The Moza R5 is 5.5Nm, R9 is 9Nm, R12 is 12Nm, R16 is 16Nm, R21 is 21Nm; the R25 Ultra (25Nm) tops the range as of 2026. Everything lives in Pit House:

• FFB Strength — overall %. This is your global gain.
• Steering Range — match the sim; 900 for most iRacing cars.
• Road Sensitivity — road detail. Start around 9-10.
• Natural Inertia — adds weight and resistance to quick movements; high values mute fine detail.
• Maximum Wheel Speed — lower makes the wheel feel heavier and more inertial.
• Speed-dependent Damping — adds damping as speed rises, calming straight-line wander.
• Friction / Damper — around 20-30% for a bit of weight.

Set Steering Range and Strength in Pit House, then in iRacing use Linear and set Max Force or run the auto-calibration so you don’t clip in heavy corners.

The R9 / R12 overheating issue

This is the most-cited Moza complaint. Run an R9 or R12 at 100% strength in a heavy title and the FFB goes weak after about 30 minutes — the base is thermally throttling to protect the motor. It is normal behavior and a design limit, not a fault. The fix is to run the base at 70-80% strength instead of 100%, improve airflow around the base, and recover the lost headroom with per-car Max Force in the sim. The R16 and R21 have more thermal margin and rarely show it.

Simagic (SimPro Manager)

Simagic torque ranges from the Alpha Mini (10Nm) and Alpha (15Nm) up through the Alpha EVO line — EVO Sport 9Nm, EVO 12Nm, EVO Pro 18Nm, EVO Ultra 28Nm. Tuning is in SimPro Manager:

• Max Torque — % of the base’s Nm. Your global strength.
• Damping — kills straight-line wander and oscillation.
• Friction — static weight.
• Inertia — adds weight feel but mutes road detail.

Inertia is where heavy rims bite. A heavy GT-style rim on an EVO already carries real rotating mass, and stacking software inertia on top makes the wheel feel sluggish and slow to return — the well-known EVO “heavy and dead” feeling. Keep inertia low if you run a heavy rim and let the rim’s own mass do the work. In iRacing, select Linear Mode for DD accuracy and use the auto force setting per car.

Two problems people mix up: clipping vs oscillation

These get conflated constantly, and the fixes are opposite.

Clipping is the signal pinned at maximum. The wheel goes numb and flat at peak load — you can’t feel the front tires let go because there’s no force left to give. Fix it by lowering gain or raising Max Force in iRacing so the loaded corner sits just under the ceiling.

Oscillation / shimmy is the wheel shaking or weaving on the straights, usually on cars without power steering. That’s too little damping or friction. Add NDP/NFR on Fanatec, Damper/Friction on Moza or Simagic — a little goes a long way before it starts muting real detail.

For the broader walkthrough of finding Max Force and reading FFB, see /ffb/, and pair your base with /hardware/pedals/ for consistent brake reference.